Marshall Hamachi: Right now.
Marshall Hamachi: Well, that's how many people are talking right now.
Okay.
Marshall Hamachi: It I did I.
Marshall Hamachi: So I think we're going to get started. Now for those of you that are joining us online, and for those of you that are here.
Marshall Hamachi: Actually, I know everybody.
Marshall Hamachi: and we are very fortunate to have a wonderful guest, or in tray, who is going to be talking about leather and sustainability just before I hand it off to him.
Marshall Hamachi: I want to make sure that acknowledged first of all, just the parish. Thank you so much for coming to the view here as a director of.
Marshall Hamachi: and also to Kimberly Marty for introducing us to Florian, can really back here our product, design and transportation design faculty.
Marshall Hamachi: So thank you all for making this possible, and I'm going to hand it off now with Florence. Right?
Marshall Hamachi: Thank you. Thank you very much for the introduction.
Marshall Hamachi: And so so you yeah the room and welcome to you on the on the screen, and maybe as well, the optim as if you couldn't make it to the knife session that you enjoy the recording office
Marshall Hamachi: since 21 years in the leather business, and I was previous to my new. So it's Royals mentioned zone, a chemical company in the Netherlands.
Marshall Hamachi: I was responsible for the third biggest leather supplier to the car industry.
Marshall Hamachi: and we were not the most important one, but we were considered to be one of the most innovative ones.
Marshall Hamachi: and that is how Kimberly and I we mentioned when I got this
Marshall Hamachi: beautiful New Year's message from K. By the way, I was like
Marshall Hamachi: I company, and then talk a little bit about that, because there's a lot of misconception in in response to that. And we spoke this morning about there that I have so much to say that I will focus this time really on the turning and the telling differences which are available on the market now versus a lot of choices.
Marshall Hamachi: and to talk a little bit about the and the value of leather, and what it can do as well from its sustainability aspect.
Marshall Hamachi: And then they to think about that they really as a recycling products
Marshall Hamachi: that is trained to be reviewed and re-used and re-used and reused again, which will be so important for you guys when you're
Marshall Hamachi: learning now to design that we design was a purpose to
Marshall Hamachi: what is happening at the end of the life of this product. And how can we make use of this valuable material on the Not here, because typically there is not only that there are other components depending on which product you develop. But how can we disassemble those? And then we use them?
Marshall Hamachi: So the presentation is called leather tending choices, creating a socially and environmentally sustainable leather value train, so that they they change in the production is becoming more and more crucial.
Marshall Hamachi: It's very much about traceability nowadays, where all the ingredients coming from that I'm. Using for my products that I have designed. Where are they produced, and under which circumstances, and as well? How toxic or non toxic, Are they to the environment? And is there something that I can do better than state of the are today?
Marshall Hamachi: So let's talk as a general overview, then going into the tening methods.
Marshall Hamachi: turning ages, compares, I trust that for most of you this is really new territory.
Marshall Hamachi: So if there is something that you don't understand why you like to
Marshall Hamachi: have a question. Please just
Marshall Hamachi: let me know, because to wait until the end of what might be complicated, to go back to where we were, and it really fits better than an in that moment probably
Marshall Hamachi: see. All that you telling is what i'm presenting here, as well as the main focus. This is a new echo from the way of producing that. So it's still the same mythology. But the ingredients are different. So the process, and all process steps are much cleaner than today.
Marshall Hamachi: It's not to put in because it's really it's striking the Leather Uk organization in the United Kingdom. Major Survey at the end of 2,021, asking 2,000 people over Great Britain.
Marshall Hamachi: different ages, different genders about leather. and it was unbelievable to understand that 50 0f the people have no clue whether that was coming from
Marshall Hamachi: and out of the 50
Marshall Hamachi: another 53% believe that animals get killed for the skins.
Marshall Hamachi: and that is not true. So it's really important to understand that you bring this message out
Marshall Hamachi: to all those people who are misleading and miss that you're
Marshall Hamachi: for most of the letters. No animal gets killed. It's killed for the me.
Marshall Hamachi: Let me send me something.
Marshall Hamachi: And what was really interesting in that letter Uk Survey as well, which i'm happy to share with you after this presentation at least credit to your students, and in the faculty it's really fascinating to understand what's happening out there in the
Marshall Hamachi: consumer balls.
Marshall Hamachi: That's once people understood that it is coming from animals getting killed for the me.
Marshall Hamachi: They that's the 100% agreed that one of the animals should be used.
Marshall Hamachi: and I see you nodding.
Marshall Hamachi: But what our
Marshall Hamachi: Humane Society is currently doing in 2022115000000
Marshall Hamachi: I. It's brought into landfill.
Marshall Hamachi: which has a huge impact on our C0 2 footfront, because the leather as C0 2 captured, or the skin such to you to capture, and in the moment that we bring it into land to release it to the air, it's not happening where we transform those into another. So it's something that we need to understand, and
we are so driven now by
Marshall Hamachi: Oh, this this all new materials! So they gone movement and look into the materials which are considered to be big on replacing leather.
Most of them are.
Marshall Hamachi: and it's as well interesting. And I spoke with Marshall this morning, and i'm happy to hear that your school is looking at this. How much of carbon consent do you have? C. 14. We call it so. How much bio based on 10 does the material have
Marshall Hamachi: when you look at to Lana as such
Marshall Hamachi: that that has by nature 100% bio concept
Marshall Hamachi: by adding.
Marshall Hamachi: depending on which kind of whether we produce, we are somewhere in average about 80 t0 85% of bio content, the lowest we could detect in that was 65% of bio content, because the chemicals which were used for this very special, and the article, because it needed to fulfill
Marshall Hamachi: very special specification for 65, but not no more than that.
Marshall Hamachi: most of the leather alternatives being sold as they gun leather. They have a. C. 14 content of 20 t0 30, but then 80 t0 70% of petrol phase. It's changing. We see this, and it's good that it's changing.
Marshall Hamachi: and we have now a new movement in Europe which are really like
Marshall Hamachi: It's not any more about we changing or replacing leather. It's about replacing plastics, and I think that's the better approach so as well as you become product designers, transportation designers as such.
Marshall Hamachi: Look into how much of natural ingredients can you use if your budget analysis, because it's as on a lot of often you're forced to use something which is cheaper, and you would like to use leather, for example.
Marshall Hamachi: But then you're forced to go into an alternative, because the budget doesn't allow you or market compact it's. It's your
Marshall Hamachi: But, Florian, remember that we have multi-grade of leather. So you have an entry level or 2 like super luxury.
Marshall Hamachi: So there there is there's many truths to this, and what's as well interesting here in that saying, the better the life of the animal the better of the leather. So, as we' a message here to the vegan movement, because it's very strong here in California.
Marshall Hamachi: We understand nowadays that we generated farming can be key to the solution of our C0 2 for the premise problem.
Marshall Hamachi: If we if we go back into how farming was done 100 0r 200 years ago, where there was no feed lots, there was no industrial mass production of me. But if we would allow those animals to live their life on the grassland.
Marshall Hamachi: or choose. If they want to be inside or outside, depending on weather conditions.
Marshall Hamachi: then we can have really a positive in act as well on the C0 2
Marshall Hamachi: grass animals actually binds C0 2 into the soil and into the roots of plants, and if we understand that it's really important, I said. As for which Marshall, that I was fortunate enough to visit the D by expo last year.
Marshall Hamachi: and I was not aware of that.
Marshall Hamachi: We are going to an extent of
Marshall Hamachi: artificial fertilizer was in 60 years. So what's gonna happen then? If there is no artificial fertilizer available anymore. So we need those animals and
Marshall Hamachi: whatever they put on the on the fields.
Marshall Hamachi: the nourish the soil, and to unfortunately that we know nowadays that we generate to farming is as well helping to improve the solid quality, so that plants and grow back. That's quite interesting. If if we understand this.
Marshall Hamachi: how everything is connected and things are connected. I think we need to think more holistic than we are doing today. There is for me. It's like a religion almost as big on movement which is not allowing or banning. No, no, no, no, for animals.
Marshall Hamachi: I would say yes to animals, but let's treat them in a humane way, and not in an industrial way, way, where we just disregard the disrespect that they have sales as we have.
Marshall Hamachi: So is this saying as well? If the animal was treated better, we cease this and a a 10 0r we snow this, and that was something that you refer to as what they are different right of our skins available on the world market.
Marshall Hamachi: the better the handle was treated the best of the outcome of the leather after tening is happening.
Marshall Hamachi: This is a quick comparison of leather to alternative materials, because there are a lot of new alternative material. It's now on the market available.
Marshall Hamachi: and you look into
Marshall Hamachi: and back shoes. But sometimes as well, even car cars and price in big quantity peu based coated fabrics, pbc coated fabrics
Marshall Hamachi: we know about long liberty of leather.
Marshall Hamachi: The beauty of leather is a typically you match the color to the finished kind of because we want to protect Leather from Rare. And here properties we know about the comfort, I put in the well-being factor, which I don't remember everybody who you were. They when I was speaking about this
Marshall Hamachi: one of the biggest differentiators from level to P. You based materials. It's not the price it is the well-being factor.
Marshall Hamachi: and you might have known the name of Albert Einstein.
Marshall Hamachi: Not everybody of you has encountered, but I understand. But he is a former scientist.
Marshall Hamachi: and he taught us that Meta does not exist. So we believe this is something that we can touch it. And we say, this is a shame in the form and same for my arm and my body.
Marshall Hamachi: We believe it. It's one.
Marshall Hamachi: But when we look into the microorganism we understand that our physical body is 55 trillion cells.
Marshall Hamachi: and then prominent movement and fiction.
Marshall Hamachi: and this generally.
Marshall Hamachi: So he saw that everything that we can touch it's an issue.
Marshall Hamachi: and when we then understand our energy being
Marshall Hamachi: that we all energy, and that energy has a current. It will go in one direction or go circular.
Marshall Hamachi: and we as well understand that we are energy beings, and we have an energy field which which in science we call the oric field.
Marshall Hamachi: So you can learn about this. It's different schools. They teach about human being and what we are as an energy beginning.
Marshall Hamachi: And with this we as well understand that there are
Marshall Hamachi: materials around us which are supporting our human battery, our own human energy, fields.
Marshall Hamachi: leather, so wood, cotton wood, all these natural ground materials, we feel well when we are
Marshall Hamachi: surrounded by them. When you are wearing something, you you you might be sensitive enough to feel of. It's actually quite comfortable. But i'm very
Marshall Hamachi: where, as you might have realized that when you have a high content of polyester fiber in what you're wearing, you might have to
Marshall Hamachi: very easy. You have a certain amount of discomfort. I hate united airlines in the meanwhile, because they put
Marshall Hamachi: final seats, see covers on that since now, and when i'm flying in an American, I very often 3 4 h flight, and i'm getting out with the wet. But
Marshall Hamachi: so now the laboratories will prove that the material that they put on their seats is better reasonable than any other.
Marshall Hamachi: Out comes that you are still touching on this on the seats. But
Marshall Hamachi: the reason is that we have a super intelligent energy system. Our body
Marshall Hamachi: which is detecting that material to be toxic t0 0ur energy fields. And I was talking about the energy as a current, plus minus. It will always go somewhere, or you absorb energy because of your tires.
Marshall Hamachi: So in the case of Vinyl, and sitting on it.
Marshall Hamachi: we start to push energy against it because we realize this is toxic to myself.
Marshall Hamachi: and in order not to lose too much energy, the only way we can prevent ourselves is to create a water shield. This is why we start setting so much
Marshall Hamachi: so. It's quite stunning to understand this, and same counts for shoes. You might have realized that if you're wearing purple leather shoes.
Marshall Hamachi: Your pizza great. They feel comfortable. They are not sweaty and not smelling.
Marshall Hamachi: But then, when you're very whatever kind of shoes which are differently made
Marshall Hamachi: you realize. Oh, my God, my socks are wet, my feet are wet, and they start to stay
Marshall Hamachi: that has that's absolutely related. S0 0nce we understand this value and the difference of material supporting our wellbeing or being against the well being. That is really something where you start thinking about. What kind of material. Do I really want to my customers to be exposed to?
Marshall Hamachi: And what kind of experience do I want to keep that end consumer by buying that material
Marshall Hamachi: depending on which front you're working for so much related as well to all this. So feeling of well being is so important nowadays.
Marshall Hamachi: We know about the high technical specifications that that I can fulfill. And Kimberly was working in the car industry before, and she's teaching it as well about it.
Marshall Hamachi: So the car industry has some of the highest expectations towards materials, so much from them live by an overcoming too much. Sometimes sometimes too much. I totally agree.
Marshall Hamachi: But you know the the average lifestyle of the car is 12 years, and even up t0 12 weeks you want that this cost still looks good. So you, as you line up, have a responsibility as well in the material choice to make sure that up t0 12 years
Marshall Hamachi: so good and still looking good, and not like where you jeopardize the the the brand image
one.
Marshall Hamachi: So that's one of the challenges. It's the wise as well. The technical specifications are so high because you live in this environment, but they are different environments. If you go into the northern hemisphere, you have ice holdings as temperature drops down to
Marshall Hamachi: i'm. I'm bad in far, right, so i'm not even giving numbers, because I can only be wrong. But then, if you go to Dubai, you have 360 days of sunset, and it's only hot hot.
Marshall Hamachi: It's unbelievable. We were talking about the bio content. So we know how high the buyer comes in is, and that's measurable. When we look int0 0ur challenges materials.
Marshall Hamachi: All i'm liberty is they're given. What about the comfort, factor, and what about the well being.
Marshall Hamachi: Do you feel well in those materials?
Marshall Hamachi: Yes, it's very trendy to call them big on that, but I would prefer they were calling about it 3 years they come from it.
Marshall Hamachi: and I think people would stop buying this because that was as what an outcome out of the survey from the Uk. You can believe it, or something different.
Marshall Hamachi: They did not expect that it would have such a high petrol content, and they were really disappointed to learn that actually the actual concept is that high?
Marshall Hamachi: So be honest.
Marshall Hamachi: I think that's as for something one of the call values of humanity is, you want that people are honest to you, and you want to be honest. So be honest as well in your product choices and in your communication
Marshall Hamachi: technical specification. So we know that most of those material will not ever make it into the car, for example, because they will not meet the specific patients. particularly if you increase the bio content of those
Marshall Hamachi: Not at all. Most of the time
Marshall Hamachi: that me off Ging
Marshall Hamachi: and the off.
Marshall Hamachi: So let's go a little bit into telling. So when we have the hide from the skin. You'll need planning to transform it into a long, lasting product, and the beauty about never is that all levels which are produce a biodiversity.
Marshall Hamachi: but by vibration, as you might now is a question of time. How long does it take
Marshall Hamachi: to Biodi right? And there are differences?
Marshall Hamachi: A vegetable tent, Leather will say, depending on where you put it. If you put it into a compost plans, it will biodiate faster than if you put it in your garden. It will take much longer because you don't have the compost conditions.
Marshall Hamachi: but vegetable 10 0thers are not enough to go into the compost plan for it take longer than 90 days, which is a period that is given for an industrial compost.
Marshall Hamachi: This is, I call it, the mother of Tannings.
Marshall Hamachi: and we use vegetable ingredients. Typically, it's fruits, leaves, wood, bark, ingredients, which are, however, rise
Marshall Hamachi: or extract it into liquids. To then be able to become a telling agent. This is what we call it, and there are 2 steps on in the turning process. The first one was actually 3. The first one is a D. Having process. Typically.
Marshall Hamachi: the hairs are not used, so they are chemicals which are taking their hair off.
Marshall Hamachi: bringing it into Bosnia. We saw there's a resolution, and then this has a recycled nowadays. So this is use. There's no waste of it.
Marshall Hamachi: The second step is in the turning as such. This is what we described here as a vet, traditional vegetable planning, and all the other planning methods.
Marshall Hamachi: I'm gonna to know what the hair is recycled into.
Marshall Hamachi: and the new product is going to be done on this. But I will come back to you with the onset. Yeah.
Marshall Hamachi: And so. And then, after that, you have input says, you have like this thick of material, we also the skin becomes quite thick.
Marshall Hamachi: and this is we are typically. if that would be a skin. I'm just saying skin.
Marshall Hamachi: he would run it through a machine which we call the split machine, and then you split it right.
Marshall Hamachi: and you split it int0 2 months you split it into the part where there is where the has on.
Marshall Hamachi: So this is the upper part of another, which is the noble part, because here, but they have holiday calls.
Marshall Hamachi: This is the best letter to you, so the best part to use, and the other part that you can see is here, and just i'm not striving. It would be this, so called split leather.
Marshall Hamachi: where there was no hair on. and split me as as well. Often she was your shoes. But as for her steering wheel sometimes very rarely for seats and upholstery.
Marshall Hamachi: but mostly for garments.
Marshall Hamachi: And then you have cut offs of this, and typically this goes into the collagen industry. As you might have realized, the fitness. Industry is now full of selling collagen, adding to protein.
Marshall Hamachi: because we have now, all those sides being unused, and the industry is looking into, what can we make out of the size of, instead of bringing them into landfall?
Marshall Hamachi: So now this is. As for the big push into the fitness industry, as we see a positive effect on people working out using collagen.
Marshall Hamachi: So after the splitting process. You then go into the tening, the first setting which and now I introduce all these different tending methods, which are not all of them. We, I just highlight, some the most popular for the moment, which made it really into the market.
and the
Marshall Hamachi: traditional best of attending. So I looked into advantages and disappointed.
Marshall Hamachi: The advantage is, it is a chrome free product. So when the savings are used to become fertilizers.
Marshall Hamachi: it's by
Marshall Hamachi: these.
if they are not made out of.
Marshall Hamachi: as I mentioned here, commonly used for shoes, handbags, and souls. We don't find that that much in the furniture, industry, or in the a bustering industry, because a little it's not. That's flexible. It's quite stiff, so it's perfect for shoes, so it's
Marshall Hamachi: and all levels. You will see in all slides all that is allowed to be recycled. There are some limitations when it comes to chrome 10 better. But I will mention that later.
Marshall Hamachi: typically in a tannery, the process time you try to shorten is to a to a minimal, because you want to sell quite quickly
Marshall Hamachi: vegetables, and let us take quite a while nowadays as one of the industrial way to do it in the course. There were pitches in the soil, but then you would hang the skins.
Marshall Hamachi: and you would then
Marshall Hamachi: expose them to the turning liquid. You always need water t0 10 letters.
Marshall Hamachi: which is not true. There is a nowadays a new development which allows us to be intent without water, but in the traditional way you need turning with water.
Marshall Hamachi: and then the the heights absorbing the water, plus as well part of the chemicals that you add. In that case, as I mentioned, bark, forge leaves, fruits, and roots.
Marshall Hamachi: all those firebase most veterans require commit processing, as you need to create out of the bar and board and trees the chemical ingredients. So you need to pulverize, if you need energy for this, to doing this, or you make an extract
Marshall Hamachi: and not, as I said, not vegetable settings are typically not suitable and use in automotive.
Marshall Hamachi: and another limitation we see at the vegetable settings. You cannot make a pure, wide number.
Marshall Hamachi: and you cannot make brilliant colors like we have here on the table. That would be very difficult to achieve those other vegetables. Another downer is as well. If you wanted to be a downer Louis P. To take it as an advantage, because they have
Marshall Hamachi: pure annually and vegetable tent, whether as a framing of their backs. Typically, when you buy such a back or you see a new one, the kind of is almost close to ivory or very lights night brown.
Marshall Hamachi: and by aging it gets darker and darker in the color. So when we talk about who fast this property, life, fastness, so the color is changing. which in the call
Marshall Hamachi: it's not embraced, yet as an add on value, it's seen as something which they don't want, because sometimes it's not controlled in which direction it's a kind of going to change. As you might have different materials. They all go in a different color, and then it looks ugly at the end, and that is definitely something that you we don't want
Marshall Hamachi: What's As for interesting with vegetable sending ingredients, and I just get numbers, you can forget them. But you typically need 3 times the amount of chemistry to produce a piece of leather compared to the next setting method that i'm introducing the chrome planning.
Marshall Hamachi: You need much more of the attending ingredients. because vegetable extracts are not penetrating as good into the leather.
Marshall Hamachi: But you want this, and that is why you need 3 times as much, so that the the leather is really becoming stable.
Marshall Hamachi: and not starting to create any models or most
Marshall Hamachi: by using this higher amount of telling agents. You have. Some have an influence on these
Marshall Hamachi: waste water, so the waste water is not as clean as we see with other turning components that are introducing you to you later.
Marshall Hamachi: and vegetable planning is always coming with a higher cost. So very often the cost is by 2,
Marshall Hamachi: sometimes even by 3, depending on what kind of material you're looking for. And you're developing.
Marshall Hamachi: and you can imagine that luxury brands like Ms. Louis V. To and but she they as well trying
Marshall Hamachi: I should select the best tiles, so that has, as what an impact on the pricing. So it's not only the vegetable, the tanning, but as well. What kind of height source you're buying? And where are you buying from Highly using a lamp skin? Are you using a cough skin? Are you using both one?
Marshall Hamachi: Where's the B when coming from? Is it South German, or is it from Switzerland? Is it from Argentina. Is it from Brazil? Where is it coming from? So all this has impact on pricing?
Hmm.
Marshall Hamachi: Oh. you don't know that
Marshall Hamachi: I thought it's only affecting all the forcing, and also the process, but not as well as it's not where you buy it from, so there as well, then sorted slides. So you need to to conserve. So that's
Marshall Hamachi: as you imagine, when when something is dead or it kills like when we die.
Marshall Hamachi: An immediate process of biodiversity starts within our body.
Marshall Hamachi: and the same cost, for
Marshall Hamachi: so there are 2 ways to prevent. This. One is to pull the kid skin after the after the
Marshall Hamachi: so you cool it. Bring it into a fridge. or you sort it.
Marshall Hamachi: We were visiting in Georgia, one of them most stunning farms, which is doing really everything right in how they treat the animals
Marshall Hamachi: their approach to equilibrium, friendly agriculture.
Marshall Hamachi: and then they kill the animals on the property. So no transportation of the animals, and they kill them in a very
Marshall Hamachi: humane why.
Marshall Hamachi: and then they have the skins. Not many, but they have skins, and they are so small that they have no refrigeration system, and there is no tannery around.
Marshall Hamachi: so unfortunately they need to solve those sides to preserve them.
Marshall Hamachi: The problem is that in the moment that assault and height, I double the footprint, the C0 2 foot and budget.
Marshall Hamachi: So there are problems out which absolutely to the right thing and amazing. And you, if you eat their meat, it's a different
Marshall Hamachi: flavor and a different experience, and if you buy it here somewhere in the restaurant, and you don't know where they voted from.
Marshall Hamachi: but then they are, they are limited to. How can we recycle the height just by sorting it? So this as well? What we see very often sorted high around the world, because those farms
Marshall Hamachi: are not around or close to a channel where they can process.
Marshall Hamachi: and then depending on where you buy from, and how big as well the sizes
Marshall Hamachi: I can, an and I will probably have a 9 put
Marshall Hamachi: surface is different, depending on the breed of the correct
Marshall Hamachi: even 24 square foot.
Marshall Hamachi: and that is important. When you're cutting something, you're losing less yields and the cutting efficiency. The bigger the height is and the less natural markings you have.
Marshall Hamachi: because if animals were outside
Marshall Hamachi: bushes, I don't know what part of your call it.
Marshall Hamachi: So there's a lot of things that go into it. I always over order, because
Marshall Hamachi: the the vendors will always for something up.
Not all about it. But
Marshall Hamachi: now i'd say those shops like, if you're doing to show up.
Marshall Hamachi: So the the more clear those things are, the better the shop is, the less leather I have t0 0rder.
Marshall Hamachi: Right? Okay.
Hmm.
Marshall Hamachi: I think of it, every
Marshall Hamachi: they all they want. That's typically this price price pressure. So you start off with a nut which is a high end leather, which is a snow and bossing or no refinement. It's like putting makeup on a face. Yeah, so that you look pretty and all the defects are hidden.
Marshall Hamachi: You would not do that with snot out there. It's just a color code just to protect it. But then
Marshall Hamachi: you can add embossings which really is giving an artificial grain to the leather, to cover
Marshall Hamachi: up t0 80 0f the natural markets which are on the height, so that you can use more. So this is really an eco-friendly approach. If you're s0 0nes because you're not, you're masking it so that you can use it rather than cutting around it. And this is throwing it away. So it's. It's really something to to say. Yes.
Marshall Hamachi: the quality of the that might be lower because of that. But we we are able to use more of the height than we would be able if we are just using the prime pieces as luxury brands. I'm still trying to convince as well brands to embrace
Marshall Hamachi: the nature and the unique business of nature, because natural markings can be part of the uniqueness.
Marshall Hamachi: If we look at our offences, I mean. Each of us looks different, and we are aging. We get ring bells, and we might have scars from surgery or whatever it is, but it makes us unique.
Marshall Hamachi: So why are we striving for something which is perfect, and not the line, particularly when we are talking about natural materials to allow them to be you.
Marshall Hamachi: and sell this as a as a USB. They need something point instead of taking it away. It's it's quite stunning. When you look at the hide, and unfortunately I didn't bring really natural that I was My!
Marshall Hamachi: But you can see grain variations in the natural green break. and then to understand. Yes, it is a challenge. How do I position this on a. C. But it still looks good. How do I combine this new idea? To have a big range to a fine grain, and
Marshall Hamachi: and I had to write this, and with this be extremely echo-friendly, because I can increase cutting here, depending on how the shape of the pattern is, of course we did through a layout on. We said.
Marshall Hamachi: We want to use everything of the height which is so. The 0 waste approach of cutting up an automotive c. Time except one model that we were supplying.
Marshall Hamachi: and it was something to understand that the patents would only allow a 65% of utilization compared to the 54 that we were officially using for the purchasing and the quality department. But the increase was only 13. I also I was. I was hoping for more.
Marshall Hamachi: but the patents are so big and complex if they did not amount to increase further, so we would have needed to work closer than this design and say, can we cut this big peel int0 2? But then you're adding soing costs I. You know how much soing costs. So sometimes it's it's really it's very sharply calculated.
Marshall Hamachi: How do I do this bigger panel, or can I add a I seam line, and I afford to see my
Marshall Hamachi: particularly you now in design, and you have the next generation of designers.
Marshall Hamachi: We can do things different than we have screwed up in our generation if i'm about to save this. Yeah. So I hope that you you can find the clients. And when the I say you know what
Marshall Hamachi: I might dare to have smaller parts, but with this I can use more of the material. 2 industries using 85% of the
Marshall Hamachi: and i'm, seeing that, as as I told you, there's so much that we can talk about. We are running out of time. We always chrome turning advantages and disadvantages. So chrome planning for you, is it to know? Is this is the most
Marshall Hamachi: embrace turning for the moment 80% of the world's lever is Ted with prom 10,
Marshall Hamachi: and it was invented the one about 120 years ago. It's using chrome, which is a heavy metal, and heavy metals have a risk factor where they might be harmful to the environment
Marshall Hamachi: where they might be on for 2 by 4. So and s0 0n, and s0 0n, and s0 0n, as Well, in the recycling process there are risk practice where Chrome might be transformed, because what we use in the canary is a. From
Marshall Hamachi: No. I need to be careful what i'm saying from
Marshall Hamachi: you do from 3.
Marshall Hamachi: But the chrome 3 can, depending on what it is exposed to temperature or humidity can transform into from 6,
Marshall Hamachi: and we know that from 6. When you get in touch with this, it's not a risk of getting to answer. It's a guarantee that you better answer. So
Marshall Hamachi: we want to avoid this industrial
Marshall Hamachi: tanneries working with chrome. They know how to control it. So there is no risk.
Marshall Hamachi: I can assure you that this is why 80% of the tenor is what I work in this is.
Marshall Hamachi: but there is still a small risk in the aftermath when it's going into.
Marshall Hamachi: That is why, nowadays the entire world is looking into. What can we do to replace chrome today? It's a strong movement, increasing demand for chrome free leather, you know there's a strong movement towards replacing Prom to get quick of that risk
Marshall Hamachi: as not in the recycling of the fibers, the shavings at the cut offs. Many countries do not allow to recycle those, so you need to bring them into mental okay
Marshall Hamachi: because of the risk factor. So you're not allowed to use it as a fertilizer, for example. So you would need to use a lot of energy to take the chrome out of those saving and cut offs.
Marshall Hamachi: so then transform it again into fertilizer. So so nowadays those savings and you need to pay as a January to bring it to
Marshall Hamachi: cradle to
Marshall Hamachi: to talk about how certain tanneries only hire people after, you know, like
Marshall Hamachi: I don't cancer. So
Marshall Hamachi: is it? Have they changed things in terms of this management? Oh, yeah, particular. We knew it was. So there is an Ng0 0ut there which is amazing, which was found it about 10 years ago. It's called the working group.
Marshall Hamachi: and you can subscribe as a channel, Richard, that a working group, and they monitor you every year.
Marshall Hamachi: And the beautiful is that the working group has established 3 levels, bronze, silver, and gold level.
Marshall Hamachi: and you apply, and then they come and check. How good are you performing and state of the what a lot about another working group is when there is an improvement in in technology.
Marshall Hamachi: They hire as well the expectation towards the tenories who are partner. So you cannot lay back and say another working both world member.
Marshall Hamachi: because next year there might be a new technology out which is required by L Lwg. To be part of your curriculum to become a to maintain your both status. If you're not investing, you drop down to silver.
Marshall Hamachi: So what's it on the company i'm working on. We are only selling to companies which are that are working group members. It's 1,600 for the moment worldwide, and this is as well that typically
Marshall Hamachi: high and fashion brands buy from, because they want to make sure that they are not involved into a slave of an slave labor child labor into environmental issues, wrong use of chemistry. We will maybe have the time and see that
Marshall Hamachi: if you are a
Marshall Hamachi: taker, if you are a buyer for leather. You want to check as one screen your tannery. If the chemistry that they are using is, I mean 0 discharge of this chemicals level 3,
Marshall Hamachi: which is one where you know that from an environmental impact this has a least of environmental impacts close to none.
Marshall Hamachi: So this is why, nowadays most of the populations in top running tanneries which are go traded. Most of the chemistry is level 3,
Marshall Hamachi: and that's As for importance, you need to know this as a
Marshall Hamachi: future product designer
Marshall Hamachi: that these things are really important, that you have knowledge about it, and that you can actively ask about this. And as we look into if you are using leather in the future, is the tannery that i'm buying for on my company is buying from. Are they that are working group members and I. J. That are working with board members.
Marshall Hamachi: And so this is important to know from
Marshall Hamachi: so
Marshall Hamachi: as well. Here you have the different rates of level quality, but in in it's as the lowest price price find on the market, and it's a leather which was 10, was strong, selling as the cheapest one. As I said before, vegetable 10 comes with an up price.
Marshall Hamachi: and the leather is lighter in weight, which can be important for allies, for example, but as
Marshall Hamachi: of electric papers. Now you want to add mileage, so you want to take right out.
Marshall Hamachi: and if you have 2 0r 4 heights in a car and they have 12 heights, but not full, because they use only 50 0f it, only the prime pieces of it. S0 6 hides actually make it into the car you have white.
Marshall Hamachi: One height is roughly 4.5 kilos, which is roughly £9 one high, so you're adding £9 away to your vehicle via
one
Marshall Hamachi: People on the on the call Can you hear? Actually, when i'm speaking? Because i'm speaking into the room, I checked. Yeah, okay.
Marshall Hamachi: What is it not going for? But now
Marshall Hamachi: there's the How about You need to click the
Marshall Hamachi: Thank you for the thumbs up.
Marshall Hamachi: It's not going forward.
Let me see what is happening
Marshall Hamachi: first step is sometimes you
Marshall Hamachi: yeah, some of us to say. And but being away, I asked him the question.
This is
Marshall Hamachi: especially when you're on a
Marshall Hamachi: Yeah.
Marshall Hamachi: yeah, everybody. Everybody's been watching. But that is still not true. That's the same. Yeah, yeah, it's not going for us.
Marshall Hamachi: We have a
Marshall Hamachi: the 7.
Marshall Hamachi: So the next turning method is which I d0 0ut of it, turning, which is a very complicated virtual
Marshall Hamachi: to pronounce. But even if you would now now ask me, how do you spell it? I would need to look at the screen and say, okay.
Marshall Hamachi: but it's more expensive than chrome training, and, as I mentioned before. The market is extremely fromfrey. Sending worldwide is roughly 10%.
Marshall Hamachi: When we try to trim.
Marshall Hamachi: Going back to the middle age.
Marshall Hamachi: Leather was a torturing material, you would take leather.
Marshall Hamachi: what's it?
Marshall Hamachi: And foot and and and rapid around the a person, a human body.
Marshall Hamachi: and in the drawing the leather shrinks, and it corrects your bones. It kills you.
Marshall Hamachi: Oh, my gosh! So by doing this, for
Marshall Hamachi: the heat makes that the leather is triangling t0 10%, and it's tracking the cockpit right? So, Bruta, do you already attending? Was it her sending match method which allows the line up to stream only up t0 3%,
Marshall Hamachi: and 3% was forgiving for a cockpit. So
Marshall Hamachi: it grows and shrinks with it without really breaking. So whenever you see real leather and luxury vehicles on a conference. Know that it is. We tell you it's 10 leather
Marshall Hamachi: until today.
Marshall Hamachi: so it's one adopted and a braced by automotive, and it has an ivory color when it's we start off. So we saw before the chrome turning. It's blue.
Marshall Hamachi: and as you kind of mentioned, if you start with blue as a color, and you want to achieve
Marshall Hamachi: an orange or yellow.
Marshall Hamachi: You need a lot of guys t0 0verride the blue, and you need a lot of pigments to get to the color where you want it to be
Marshall Hamachi: with the ivory tone you need already less color and less pigment. So I already more echo-friendly in that approach. But gluten you under hit this atomic, over which is by toxic.
Marshall Hamachi: So that's now where the European Government is looking on. Bluetooth, you. I did it
Marshall Hamachi: preparing a possible ban for 2026?
Marshall Hamachi: This is why now as well the car industry, and as well others look into how can we replace it by something else, but it's cheap still, the same results not cracking off
Marshall Hamachi: being formed stable and allowing
Marshall Hamachi: there might be a question, Can I just check in the chat.
Marshall Hamachi: So the first coming with respect to the vegetable tanning processes, if penetration to the weather is a problem, has there been an effort to use one small molecules which are water miscible, but solute friendly.
Marshall Hamachi: I am thinking of Dms. So in particular, it has a high vapor pressure, so it evaporates easily, but it's used as a chemical delivery system for some human treatments.
Marshall Hamachi: That's the first one. The second one is what about high pressure treatment of the vegetable
Marshall Hamachi: vegetable tanning agents. Okay, that these are really good questions, Joseph. Thank you for those. But to to answer the first one I don't know. Dms: O. To be honest, so I would need some education here.
Marshall Hamachi: I can answer the second one. If you want to go into a high pressure, you need to reactor and react to tenning was developed. But it is a high invest because you need to understand the typical industrial tanneries. They're attending 100 batches of 100 heights, 200 t for 400 eyes.
Marshall Hamachi: So if you calculate that the height in a white state has about £120,
Marshall Hamachi: not in the dry state, but in the website £120.
Marshall Hamachi: You need huge reactors, and you need to have high pressure to be able to really penetrate this. The idea was
Marshall Hamachi: looked into by the frown more for institute in Germany they have developed, and I react to this is why, where I said, not all endings are with water. S0 0n, and all of our Institute in Germany developed a planning method without water, where the chemicals were really penetrated with the reactor.
Marshall Hamachi: But it is such an I invest, and with so much risk related, because
Marshall Hamachi: you really need to make sure that your 100 0r 400 high patches are tempt fully through.
Marshall Hamachi: and it really makes it into the skins. And not only on a laboratory, but you have 5 t0 10 they're at work. But then on an industrial scale in tenories. We're too afraid to really invest in it, and it' only work with chrome planning. And now, as the industry is moving away from Chrome.
Marshall Hamachi: it does it doesn't even make more sense to go into this. So good questions good point. But i'm sorry that I Won't be able to answer the first one. I it. It's okay. Thank you for considering it based on I don't know system can answer it.
Okay?
Marshall Hamachi: So I go to the next tening, which is one of them.
Marshall Hamachi: They are taking the leaves of the trees, and they are 2 times leaves available per year. And this company who has developed this telling method is based in Germany.
Marshall Hamachi: and they are buying the leaves from the Mediterranean area, and they are a huge amount of other trees available. and after the leaf is developed only in spring, the farmers cut back the trees to get a better harvest.
Marshall Hamachi: This is where the first time we have access to the leaves. And then in November, when the harvest is happening of the onlooks, when they take the others down. That is the second moment there is a huge amount of leaves available.
Marshall Hamachi: and so now these leaves are burned.
Marshall Hamachi: so it's quite interesting to now collect those leaves, and in an extract process
they make out of those
Marshall Hamachi: which is even now they've sold in German pharmacies or drug stores, because it's understood as a detoxa or their human body.
Marshall Hamachi: so you can drink it, and it's the same. It's the same that we use as a timing, so you can drink it for for health purposes, but you can as well create beautiful out of this. It has a very nice smell.
Marshall Hamachi: and this is the only leather. No, it's not the only anymore. There's a second one. But it was the first that I would just have the crater to create a certificate. So pull, go to status.
and it has an amazing beautiful over
Marshall Hamachi: for me. I always said it smells a little bit like to back on these like fresh tobacco, these, but really nice.
Marshall Hamachi: some conference and pricing. Most most of them are luxurious friends. Porsche is using it's Coda is using it for the Ev, and then
Marshall Hamachi: but it might really make a change to the industry and as well. Others. Other products are using handbag shoes. You can use it for multiple purposes.
Marshall Hamachi: One of the disadvantages, as I mentioned before, which of external turning no white color and no bright colors. So we were limited in the car industry t0 3 4 5 Connors, but still beautiful.
Marshall Hamachi: and you need a higher amount of tanning agent. So Chrome telling me about 6% of planning agent for
Marshall Hamachi: the other belief turning. There's a license you need to buy a license as it 10 0r if you want to users.
Marshall Hamachi: so there's a license fee to this, plus they, they they insist on a minimum of 17% of planning ingredient usage.
Marshall Hamachi: So is this: the price goes up. So typically you look at the double price tickets to a normal sound. That's a chrome of conflict, and that
Marshall Hamachi: But this we have a high impact of waste water when I was visiting
Marshall Hamachi: big tannery hubs, and it's only producing leather for the car industry, they said, growing. If we are asked to switch tomorrow to all of you attending one day later. We need to close because the F one plants will not be able to manage the amount of waste in the waste water.
Marshall Hamachi: So you need to ask one. Look, then, into the city waste water treatment plant. If that treatment plant is capable to really extract everything that needs to be extracted so that the water can be.
Marshall Hamachi: There are.
Marshall Hamachi: So, coming to theology, I hope this now works Lasers shortly. We are. We
Marshall Hamachi: did not test this when we started here.
Okay
Marshall Hamachi: on the yeah.
No.
Marshall Hamachi: we need to.
Marshall Hamachi: I would give Marshall the link to the video after the presentation
Marshall Hamachi: shared that.
Marshall Hamachi: Yeah.
okay.
Marshall Hamachi: Leather is one of my most.
Marshall Hamachi: So this video is explaining how theology works. It's a new chemistry, which is not that you actually because we are using 3 elements, it's a to space.
Marshall Hamachi: and for dishwasher detergents and for washing powder. So it's something that we use every day, and it's quite a clean thing, because it's cleaning, and the only thing it wants to to really clean something.
Marshall Hamachi: And we, since it's really penetrating into something, so as watching, watching the church and this cleaning and washing powder is really penetrating into the fiber. This is one of the things that we are using for we call in theology setting. So the components that we use are oxygen
Marshall Hamachi: and oxygen. And so let's see my also basically bound together oxygen. And so it's some ascent
Marshall Hamachi: so we can use any, as we are mainly using sandwiches coming from inland Holland or in Belgium, which is close t0 0ur factories.
Marshall Hamachi: the aluminum, but that we are using is coming from Gamia in Africa as we don't have any aluminum plant closer to us. So here's something, a a brainer which, coming from the design field, it took me weeks to understand. How does it work?
Marshall Hamachi: So we call it. It's a map of free. But then there is a domain of in there
Marshall Hamachi: what I did not gras on. So a certain day was that aluminum is actually
Marshall Hamachi: in a rock. and you polarize the rock.
and
Marshall Hamachi: with this you create a wide product
Marshall Hamachi: which is as well part of our washing.
Marshall Hamachi: We use the same white powder, so it's not to me.
Marshall Hamachi: You need to melt that white powder, so it becomes a metal. That is why we can claim it as a metal free tunning.
Marshall Hamachi: But when you then go into an analyze the chemical analyze of the leather, the outcome will be. There are 10,000 ppm of a dominant in there.
Marshall Hamachi: because there is no difference in the Monte Carlo structure of the powder
and the ready metal.
Marshall Hamachi: So we are currently challenging universities to find a way to this thing, to differentiate between what it cost structure, if that is even possible, of the a domain of powder to the aluminum metal.
Marshall Hamachi: Now.
Marshall Hamachi: fortunately, the University of Nether making in Northampton is England. They made studies in a survey, and they are now
Marshall Hamachi: having giving out a clear statement to Brands looking into his theology, telling that it is a matter of returning.
Marshall Hamachi: using the aluminum box side the powder, but not the metal.
Marshall Hamachi: because there was an aluminum planning available in the seventys and Italy which caused huge problems in the planning process.
Marshall Hamachi: And what in the aging of the level, and s0 0n, and s0 0n, and s0 0n, and s0 0n particularly. It's it. Don't want to use under medium in that 10 min anymore.
Marshall Hamachi: So now, fortunately, with this statement coming from Northampton as well, the Italians are slowly opening up for understanding. Okay, based on the minimum. And there's aluminum.
Marshall Hamachi: And once you got this, then you're fine. But if you have this
Marshall Hamachi: mix of aluminum is only a metal, then you're really quote in. Oh, but this is a metal saying, No, it is, and it's really difficult to understand that even to it's fine.
Marshall Hamachi: So we are not a renewable resource. We take from the us, and is, you can see these 3 elements together. They roughly make about 80 0f what is available in the first us.
Marshall Hamachi: The Earth's process is 26 miles thick. and we do. We only need to do surface mining. So it's different than coal mining where you need to go deep.
Marshall Hamachi: How is this on the surface.
Marshall Hamachi: and the the the aluminum box that we are using is coming from my mind. But as all the the industry is mining, and as well you call this
Marshall Hamachi: the food industry is sourcing t0 0ur packaging.
Marshall Hamachi: so we are really the smallest part out of that mind.
Marshall Hamachi: And then, when you look into the chrome. So the chrome sending the famous contenting that I was thinking about before that is available promise t0 0 point 0 0ne available in the first Us Trust, which is element 21
Marshall Hamachi: it, and then difference between chrome and aluminum aluminum is a lightweight metal, so all like that white medals are considered to be non toxic
Marshall Hamachi: to the environment. This is why as well, we find aluminum in our food chain s0 0ften wise coffee put into aluminum. Why do we have this aluminum foil, and and then and
Marshall Hamachi: so it's it's known as non toxic.
Marshall Hamachi: And but then the happy metals there's always a restructure which is not the case on the so let me know
Marshall Hamachi: we're looking into Iso certifications. This is something that we can go in depth in another day. and we have kind, different
Marshall Hamachi: certifications. We did a life cycle assessment which nowadays is more and more important for brands to look into. What is the equipment that you create with your products. So the chemistry life cycle assessment numbers. We create
Marshall Hamachi: primary data, which is quite complicated because there was a premise and mixed out there they were using data, which was.
Marshall Hamachi: This is why, as one material, but banned or not, looked at any more because their data was old. So for us out of that reason we choose
Marshall Hamachi: a very long way to get our primary day, such as one and a half years to have the full supply chain transparent, that each single one
Marshall Hamachi: way transportation of doing this, the mining, the transformation into chemistry, how much water was used! All these aspects, which are important for Lab site assessment. So we work with spin 360, which is in Milan Based
Marshall Hamachi: agency, which is helping particularly the training industry to get the numbers, for.
Marshall Hamachi: So it took one and a half years to have the numbers we have to. Now we share them with everybody who wants to have them. But we don't, obviously. Yes.
Marshall Hamachi: and because it's sensitive things. I can't even miss meeting information. If you don't know how to read an Lca. That is why we only give them out for a presentation. We explain those numbers so that they are carefully used, and not spread out this wrong context
Marshall Hamachi: advantages and disappoint. It's just out of my time. I'm over time already. I'm sorry
Marshall Hamachi: so the
Marshall Hamachi: it's a chrome-free tunning. It's metal-free
Marshall Hamachi: here we still say heavy metal free, but it's metal free, and it's from us that you are. You get free.
Marshall Hamachi: and it's mineral base, so it's not coming from a regrowing resource, as we mentioned in the disadvantage. But we as one needs, we need 7 0f tanning ingredient compared t0 6. That chrome planning
Marshall Hamachi: what we see that in a third-ending step. We need a little bit more chemistry than we would need in chrome telling. So chrome planning from an environmental aspect, is still quite interesting, but has a risk. Factors
Marshall Hamachi: as nowadays. Many companies want to quit playing this risk after this is
Marshall Hamachi: It's a true challenge. If to both tanning message to chrome, and the chrome, returning from pretending didn't have a huge success as well, because it was not as form stable.
Marshall Hamachi: so particularly the furniture industry was not embracing it, as it would not keep the shape as wanted, or it was not as soft as wanted, for
Marshall Hamachi: for the first time Leather can now become posted. So I was speaking about my vibration, and compostable
Marshall Hamachi: the intermediate of the the
Marshall Hamachi: the shavings the cut-offs. They can be composeded within 28 days so in an industrial compost plants.
Marshall Hamachi: and within 28 days out of the leather left overs we have the new soil, which is
Marshall Hamachi: because you have a time frame of 90 days allowed. Those savings could as well become a fertilizer without bringing them into a compost, and they are rich in nutrition.
Marshall Hamachi: There is no risk of from 6 formation because there is no prom in there. What is really amazing. The video shows that when you watch the vide0 0ne day the leather is really white, my canvas at the beginning, when it's coming out of the drum. So again, if you want to make a one leather.
Marshall Hamachi: it's easy nowadays, with even with the chrome free sending you, we're still fighting this yellow of the chrome-free now we can really produce. Might that, and one of the biggest market in the world. Growing is the white supermarket. So the white
Marshall Hamachi: running int0 0pen. Do you know where they have no issues to create one another?
Marshall Hamachi: After saying the older is neutral. So, for countries like China older is the top top importance
Marshall Hamachi: thing to look into.
Marshall Hamachi: and there is n0 0rder to.
Marshall Hamachi: It's fully commercialized, and salaries who have embraces when they see that the development time is one of the shortest people that much I ever seen in developing a new tanning method.
Marshall Hamachi: as all that this is that is about to be recycled. Thank you
Marshall Hamachi: on the disadvantage side.
Marshall Hamachi: So, as I, as I mentioned, we know this product from the the washing power, watching the charge. And 2, specifically, those products have no
Marshall Hamachi: n0 0lder things that we add
Marshall Hamachi: a Roma's to it.
Marshall Hamachi: Sense doesn't smell. Typically, there was nothing added to it, or it was in the in some. Somewhere it was water in contact, seeds, salt water, or something. Then you have to smell.
Marshall Hamachi: As I mentioned before, we need a little bit more of retailing compared to the chrome planning, but it's very similar to the groups that you are you sending, returning, that we need amount of.
Marshall Hamachi: and it comes with a higher cost and chrome and chrome-free. Letter.
Marshall Hamachi: So this is not really true, because we have now a Chinese 2 tannery, and they sell these geology turning $10 the same price point
Marshall Hamachi: as chrome
Marshall Hamachi: question.
Marshall Hamachi: Does that make sense? Yes, it makes sense.
Marshall Hamachi: So we know that the
Marshall Hamachi: so we create a 0 light. If you're someone because it's 0 like minds where the 3 elements are bound, and we bring those 3 elements together, and we create, create an artificial video. And we use this because we know that these monic who's for one, really
Marshall Hamachi: penetrate into those collagen structure, and they create a network around this.
Marshall Hamachi: So I don't know if that is answering really the question.
Marshall Hamachi: You might get the answer as or because this is talking about the molecular structure of the element, and how it penetrates into the collagen fiber.
Marshall Hamachi: Joseph, I'll keep the the text download after this to keep track of your questions
Marshall Hamachi: perfect.
Marshall Hamachi: I can
Marshall Hamachi: just be rushed through those. These are certifications that the chemistry goods
Marshall Hamachi: crater to create a material how to that with the people working with the chemistry, so to have no risk of any harm.
Marshall Hamachi: There's a. Tox F. And he screening that is important for fashion industry, Nike, and he does, Zara. If you work with those brands, you must have a tox F. And these screening we have here as well the highest score for the material for the tanning ingredient and turns. Theology sending was a what it was, a green product awards against what
Marshall Hamachi: 1,500 competitors last year, which was a big achieve, but for us that we were recognized as the best of new materials. little bit of a deduction. So the reason why that's a fantastic program from from Puma, where they said, Well, you have now compostable, that that, and
Marshall Hamachi: whom I was looking for 500 tests that I was one of them.
Marshall Hamachi: Puma is looking really into creating impossible shoes. I understand that this is really the goal for products. If it can't be reduced, reduced, or recycled or composed, then it should be banned from the production. So now they are looking into.
Marshall Hamachi: Can we create a shoe that is pretty compostable.
Marshall Hamachi: They tested 10 pairs because they had 12 years ago already an an an approach to
Marshall Hamachi: all. They approach t0 0ther composable materials. But then back then, 1012 years ago there was no composable that that's only since 2 years on the market.
Marshall Hamachi: They did produce 10 pairs, and in Germany we have a legislation which does not allow you to compose shoots.
Marshall Hamachi: I still hope that they are compostable. So is it compostable needs. I including all like
Marshall Hamachi: and put it compostable, and so they tested him. I come kind of kind of.
Marshall Hamachi: and 10% are allowed to take longer, but they must be toxic free.
Marshall Hamachi: and Pouva was able to prove that it stops the train.
Marshall Hamachi: And so now they have then, then these 500.
Marshall Hamachi: So you brought back to Kuma.
Marshall Hamachi: and they needed a compost plant out of the country to prove that shoes are compostable.
Marshall Hamachi: Now, currently, those 500 pairs are in the process of being biodi grading, and at the end of the March end of March the process is done.
Marshall Hamachi: and then, through my all the day that you go to the German government, and say, we prove that to some of
Marshall Hamachi: they will sell those shoes and launch them big scale as and and market those as a Thank you. And then I was really really happy that they sent me a new pair of
Marshall Hamachi: the reason why it's not any other out of their brand. Because I really want to know some possible shoes, because this is a different stop.
Marshall Hamachi: There's more to tell about the compostable thing we turn to Nature back on.
Marshall Hamachi: And so then there was a German tannery saying, actually we found something which might be interesting for you.
Marshall Hamachi: And then she came, and working with the tannery and us together to get the story right. So she has now have both collection of the hand back election launched.
Marshall Hamachi: and then there is Emma safety shoes. They take back shoes now, and they
Marshall Hamachi: this assembled those shoes, and they we use all the material that they have on those shoes which is quite interesting.
Marshall Hamachi: Let me come back to the question.
Marshall Hamachi: but it's set up, but it's not like separating by material
Marshall Hamachi: as a an inlay material.
Marshall Hamachi: this big one.
Marshall Hamachi: And then they saw the Bio vibration process. They have 10 and 9 canvas.
Marshall Hamachi: and they are about 150 meters long. Can somebody do the conversion by 3? It's about 450 feet long. One standard. They put all the material in which is typically garden, garden, waste, kitchen ways, food ways, supermarket, base, everything that is compostable.
Marshall Hamachi: and then they makes it, and they bring it into the first chamber. For 10 days
Marshall Hamachi: they close the metal door, and then they heat it up to a temperature of roughly 125 miles.
Marshall Hamachi: They add humidity and microbes and bacteria to the mix.
Marshall Hamachi: and then, after 2 days I stop the artificially, because everything is so activated that it creates its own heat by then. So it has a temperature of roughly 100 Fahrenheit. It drops down t0 100, but the process has started
Marshall Hamachi: after 10 days. It's take it out, and they mix it again, and then they bring it into a second chamber. Same names. That's new mix and so they have 9 chambers 10 days for chamber 90 days and after
Marshall Hamachi: 90 days.
Marshall Hamachi: 90% must be bi-decorated means new soil was created.
Marshall Hamachi: and then 10% as they, the rubber of the natural Roma of the soul will take longer, and they know this, but in the biodigration process already 90% became sold, and they are only small bits and bits of pieces of the rubber which are still visible in the soil.
Marshall Hamachi: But that's fine. That's accepted for you.
Marshall Hamachi: making proposal that starts with the end of life in mind, and then reverse engineering and design. And that's really important, and that it's probably part of
Marshall Hamachi: what we will do next time. Look into how we we, how can we design? We see the end of the life in mind. And how would that have an impact on the design and change design, and what ideas are out there? And we generate some ideas together what is in the room just by brainstorming about it.
Marshall Hamachi: and some what is, as for very important to to see when we did the zoology planning, testing on on composibility. But you have the soil at the end of the from posting
Marshall Hamachi: typically these compost plants they add artificial fertilizer to the soil, so that when you buy it as a, and you have a garden that your plants grow really nice. That is what you want to receive.
Marshall Hamachi: They got furious because they said, we know by nature that is extremely rich in nutrition.
Marshall Hamachi: We are not going to add artificial fertilizer to this soil, which has the geology talent.
Marshall Hamachi: another in there
Marshall Hamachi: we just do. The plant grows tests. So this is typically how they test their soil before selling it. They make a plant grow stuff.
Marshall Hamachi: So they put seeds in soil, and they have now the comparison between the one which starts with protein iser, and one which said the never
Marshall Hamachi: putting seats in in humid.
Marshall Hamachi: So with the leather. That's to a 20% better plant grows than the one
Marshall Hamachi: having artificial purchase
Marshall Hamachi: erez agmoni, because if we now start compostable leather production, and we give not live 6 lives to like that in 60 years. It's ready to be composted 150.
Marshall Hamachi: So
Marshall Hamachi: you see this, it's. It's beautiful. How divine order works. Yeah, when we are open to this, and when we understand how rich nature is and what we can learn rather than saying, Why not want to use that anymore? Because i'm Vegan.
Marshall Hamachi: and not to exclude necessarily and be so strict, and only see black and white. We have so many colors in mind. We we are talking about diversity. Look at the colors that we have. You would be said to have only 2 colors on the table. Yeah, and look for diversity that we have. So I think as well.
Marshall Hamachi: If we are much more tolerant with each other and to each other that can change in a very positive way, and we have enough drama in the world. And so this I would end this for today.
Marshall Hamachi: This is a short summary. We will share the Pdf. With you that you can have a look at it's. Questions. Sorry that we could only take 3 questions that might be for. But I don't want the recording to be too long. He is okay. Yeah, that's good. It's fine.
Marshall Hamachi: Everyone is comfortable here. Anyone online to ask questions, please post it to the chat. I'll get a notification
Marshall Hamachi: and otherwise open it up. If anyone has any questions, please.
Marshall Hamachi: My question is to the students. What is it more than you ever thought it would be?
Marshall Hamachi: It's my
Marshall Hamachi: but we would talk with you about showing
Marshall Hamachi: how that could be reused if it was designed in a way to be a reuse in the next presentation that we will have on the next meeting. I will show you slides where we this is sample. Then i'll be a 6 seat and an open omega seat, which is, an
Marshall Hamachi: I. We went into a new way. I don't know what kind of
Marshall Hamachi: the letter was perfectly renewed, so we create. So we disassembled to see, but this December took us 4 h.
Marshall Hamachi: because they Haven't provided a lot of acceptable in a recycling. Well, you need to have
Marshall Hamachi: seconds. Yeah, this is what it's about. Yeah, so seeds need to be redesigned so that the quick claim the materials. So i'm I'm calling now on the leaders and the
Marshall Hamachi: and then disassembled so that the material can be reused
Marshall Hamachi: in the outy seeds, because that was we 20 years old and Kimberly, you know, 20 nowadays. 23 years ago That was really 100% better on that.
Marshall Hamachi: So we are sitting on money, and we are burning it. How stupid are we? I mean, Really.
Marshall Hamachi: this is ridiculous. Once the material that's ground, it's not forever. So there are really. And that is where I, where I hopefully be able to upload you in the future, that you come up with solutions so that can be done differently.
Marshall Hamachi: Many months ago I was speaking to a Bmw. Designer, and she said, growing, who says that we are buying classes for seeds in the future could be 3.
Marshall Hamachi: All right. What I mean.
Marshall Hamachi: she said. You create your own driver seat. This is a seat that is tailored to your needs.
Marshall Hamachi: and like a furniture, you'll move it with you from one count to the next to the next, to the next to the next. So you about this for your lifetime.
Marshall Hamachi: It's a it's a new way of thinking.
Marshall Hamachi: Yeah, it's a revolution to the car industry. But they are thinking differently.
Marshall Hamachi: Yeah, Don't stick with with the things that we have necessarily done. They look nice. They were useful. I'm not saying that everything is bad, but we are in an in it's such a pragmatic time. Change for the moment that you are not to experience your so to be here
Marshall Hamachi: in that period of line, if you like it or not. But you're so. Not choose that.
Marshall Hamachi: Sorry.
Yeah, it's not perfect
Marshall Hamachi: long journey.
Marshall Hamachi: She was just act as the original service
Marshall Hamachi: we need to look into what are the right?
Marshall Hamachi: They give you a call for 2 years, and then they take it off. The market. Is that or sustainable?
Yeah.
Marshall Hamachi: I don't know what we are doing here. I'm: I'm really questioning this
Marshall Hamachi: next time. Do you want to take a little bit of time just to describe some of your samples
Marshall Hamachi: that that is very often seen as boring and dull. But there are so many things that we can use with
Marshall Hamachi: always a price around a tool for preparation is the cheapest you can have, because it's a machine that can produce a tool.
Marshall Hamachi: any other shape it's handmade. So that is tripening the price of such a tool. So this is an as well. Very often you only see around towards for corporation.
Marshall Hamachi: You'll be happy, but you could ask for printed, and some it can be screen printing. It can be roller printing. It can be inched printing into it 10 things now ready to go, and
Marshall Hamachi: but for process, I think, show cost. It works correctly.
Marshall Hamachi: These samples are produced for the fashion industry, so they were not really produced for the car industry.
Marshall Hamachi: and you have traditional traditional evidence like those which are very well known.
Marshall Hamachi: That sounds good.
Marshall Hamachi: And what's as one you so the geology 10 meter as we were talking about chrome-free, and that there was a
Marshall Hamachi: let us a very trendy and fashion from time to time
Marshall Hamachi: every 4 5 seasons it's coming back, and then it's going out, and then it's coming back again. For the moment we see it coming back on
Marshall Hamachi: I personally not that much a pan of it, because I'm. Missing the touch and field of the
Marshall Hamachi: but it's still beautiful, and
Marshall Hamachi: on chrome 3 groups that you have to it since that if I would not work
Marshall Hamachi: on theology. It works. So that's what something, whereas theology really becomes now has a true.
Marshall Hamachi: maybe success of chronic, you know as well the finishing has in the production, and then
Marshall Hamachi: and then you can as well do beautiful umbrella effects. Typically, they are hands right. We didn't production vehicle.
Marshall Hamachi: and they had like to white on break, in fact, which was in that process that was really innovation back then.
Marshall Hamachi: So this is what I brought, and then
Marshall Hamachi: the library is full of beautiful
Marshall Hamachi: samples which were done with the call in the street together, where they are different preparation patterns, combinationations of preparation and proteins.
Marshall Hamachi: all combinations of quilting preparation and embroidery, or an embossing, and then, in addition, or you had a place in bossing or or so it's endless. So it's just like many people consider leather as an old material.
Marshall Hamachi: and being borrowing and looking for the new stuff. And when the new stuff and what's in you, sir? Take the
Marshall Hamachi: think about yourself, I think, with yourself, or sit with your friends. What can we do to the leather, so that it looks new and attractive?
Marshall Hamachi: We don't necessarily need to have new material. So there's a question flowing from ozzy Alberta's other than color and print can texture of grain be embossed.
Marshall Hamachi: So there are different ways that you can emboss. As I mentioned, you could create created a place in Bosing which could be a local of a brand.
Marshall Hamachi: If you want to have a hand flag, or you want to have a car seat, and you want just a particular local on the shoulder area of the seat you can just place to a place and busing, or in the headmaster. We see it very often the week the Chrysler local or special editions of Srt. Or
Marshall Hamachi: go t0 0ur or whatever it is. So you have a special embossing on TV busing. Sometimes you want to send it out.
Marshall Hamachi: and then you can have an overall embossing, which is the brain. Assist, as I've mentioned before, which is masking
Marshall Hamachi: the natural defect, so that you get to better efficiency and casting
Marshall Hamachi: what's the durability of the
Marshall Hamachi: So nowadays we found an inject company, Akron in Belgium, and their durability is meeting automotive specifications.
Marshall Hamachi: So it can be like.
Marshall Hamachi: And what is beautiful. So we give me change of almost here snail
Marshall Hamachi: this as well. Ostrich prints very often, which looks like ostrich. But then you can see that as it doesn't open where the feather was in, that it is an emboss and not an
Marshall Hamachi: so they are. They are height sources where you the question do I really want to reduce it? It's interesting to understand that, for example.
Marshall Hamachi: it's not necessarily. They are not necessarily raised for the leather
Marshall Hamachi: we've got. Crocodile is the most valuable skin on the markers.
Marshall Hamachi: and particularly a luxury Plans like Ms. Louisville. Good! She. They have their own farms; they have their own tennis with those high skip tent.
Marshall Hamachi: This is where they have the highest margin in their product lines. So for them it's transfer crucial. Now we are working with some of the big luxury houses
Marshall Hamachi: to get theology turning ready as well for crocodile, which is still for us a a a challenge. Yeah.
Marshall Hamachi: And because the penetration of the penetration and absorption of the chemist chemicals is not happening as we would like it to happen. So we still need development.
Marshall Hamachi: But for all other skins, we are able to do it so as well for you as a product designer. Look into
Marshall Hamachi: what are the skins that you feel comfortable with
Marshall Hamachi: where these animals found for their needs.
Marshall Hamachi: or where they just for their skin; because, unfortunately, there are some animals like Crossover dial
Marshall Hamachi: which most of the time gets found for their skin and not for the me. so that differences so.
Marshall Hamachi: and I think we can as well improve there and do things better in the future, as my generation has done.
Marshall Hamachi: I brought a hide because I didn't know anyone
to walk through any.
Marshall Hamachi: So what you can see here.
Marshall Hamachi: So this is where the the head was here. This is a neck area, and then there's a butt area, and then you have to where it goes down into the next. And then again, you have the bell like panic area. I would think that this most of all, because
typically female power, they would show more of
Marshall Hamachi: how you say that the gross marks, then they are pregnant.
Marshall Hamachi: Okay.
Marshall Hamachi: the head is missing.
Marshall Hamachi: You can see bigger brain structure than in the middle. Yeah. So this typically is a sign of softness, and that it was. It got the stretch before
Marshall Hamachi: those are typically more from even into the valley area.
Marshall Hamachi: And then that is what I mentioned when I said the usage of brain differences. If you have a product and you want to go into a 0 waste approach.
Marshall Hamachi: You need to consider. How does that work together in my project?
Marshall Hamachi: Do I allow this in the
Marshall Hamachi: coming from here, and that has significantly in a different range structure. and every seat will look different is that I think it should be allowed.
Marshall Hamachi: if we really mean it, with saving the planet and do something right and changes. Today. Automotive leather is cut in average with 50% of utilization. The other 50% are scrapped
bye.
Marshall Hamachi: and then either.
Marshall Hamachi: So they're not using using the trash part into.
Marshall Hamachi: So I think it. I think if your design teams for your whole brand, sit down and have a big conversation about materiality.
Marshall Hamachi: and how every team
Marshall Hamachi: can use all of the material. But I think it's it's completely doable because we were able to do it.
Marshall Hamachi: So I think it's just a bigger special
Marshall Hamachi: Some of the smaller studios might use like give out dead stock. Some people was going to the west now, and this lady had all her, you know. Stuff. So there's a little bit of
Marshall Hamachi: to the
Marshall Hamachi: you know. There's a big box of it in the in the room.
Marshall Hamachi: Positive.
Marshall Hamachi: I'm happy that you feel that the presentation was relevant to you, and for your future projects, and what you're working on.
Marshall Hamachi: But it's really it's an extremely complex topic. Yes, and I think that is that is something which is underestimated, and I think even that far. But some brands shy away from using that because
Marshall Hamachi: they don't want to deal with complex.
Marshall Hamachi: so it's because it's. As for very easy to say, there is pressure on the the animal protective organization.
Marshall Hamachi: but they are.
Marshall Hamachi: They use wrong claims because they use the claim that animals get killed for the leather, which is not true.
Marshall Hamachi: and that is as well. I don't agree with on my card name, which is as we're not using that because she can, says animal schedules for that that it's not this true true treatment. But you ask me for this one boom material, which is now in a test special edition. I don't know.
Marshall Hamachi: and even she is saying, by using my material, you'll say set 10 calls from being killed for your current area. I'm sorry i'm i'm really i'm close to asking a lawyer to get behind those companies because it's misleading information, and it's just one.
Marshall Hamachi: So if you guys remember when
Marshall Hamachi: the dory leather from it has come and talked to all of us, and they're here on on the West Coast. That organization is doing a big push in European Union with all of their, whether it's any to to educate.
Marshall Hamachi: and that green wash. And so I was talking to Florid about this as well. I've told you guys before that in France and Spain it is illegal to use the word weather
Marshall Hamachi: if it is not from available.
Marshall Hamachi: So if it's misused, they can take them to court. In those countries.
Marshall Hamachi: in every country in the you.
Marshall Hamachi: and they're also talking to the United States. So I think that as we move forward, the green washing will
Marshall Hamachi: down because of legislation. But it's als0 0ur
Marshall Hamachi: it's our job as the senior, to educate you as much as we can. So when you walk into a studio, you are an educated young designer that can say
Marshall Hamachi: actually.
Marshall Hamachi: what I learned was this. So why can we talk about it?
Marshall Hamachi: Yeah, even if you go into a shop, I mean how much.
Marshall Hamachi: very often there is misleable it happening, and we're just confused in front of it. What? I'm not buying here that you buy because you like the brand. So you don't question red. What's manufactured You don't question what it is? What's the material component? How was it composed? And s0 0n? And s0 0n. They're just not asking, because you say all this this last thing
Marshall Hamachi: i'm really frustrated with the fashion industry myself. But I don't know if you obser so right thing. But we see awareness that I've got from this from the school where I was educated about the well being factor of natural materials to my energy field.
Marshall Hamachi: I start to look into labels, and they're trying to buy only 100% natural material. So we'll call whatever it's available in them and someone.
Marshall Hamachi: So I have my favorite ones.
Marshall Hamachi: And now these friends started to put 2% for Yes, in that 1020% insurance where there was before. Why is that so? I got to this salesperson, and they said, oh, you know we put it into your comfort. But i'm really
Marshall Hamachi: I don't be comfortable with. Oh, yes, sir, so it's definitely not for my comfort. Reason.
Marshall Hamachi: It's to make more money for the companies for this so much cheaper than any national, you know. So it's just
Marshall Hamachi: cost-driven costs and customers. That is why they ask for that at the beginning depending on what what brand you might work and up working for you might not be allowed to use lever on. Actually, not much.
Marshall Hamachi: And you're happy to have a job, so that's as well something where you might be able to start talking about these things that maybe should elevate your branch to a new knowledge and to a new state, so that marketing structure
Marshall Hamachi: By the
Okay.
Marshall Hamachi: So I think we're getting to the end of our
Marshall Hamachi: It's not that I think.
Marshall Hamachi: Yeah. People needed to head off t0 0ther stuff. So
Marshall Hamachi: that's good in here, thanks again to Justine Parrish, for along with you sewing a lab, and we've already been making the introduction.
Marshall Hamachi: Sorry I'm blocking you here.
Marshall Hamachi: Now the focus
Marshall Hamachi: Boston's mine.